Two Ingredients My Derm Told Me To Add To My Skincare Routine at 30

Beauty confession #1: As someone who has written (and still writes) about skincare and beauty, I’m surprisingly basic when it comes to my own routine. My daily skin armour consists of little more than a cleanser, moisturiser, SPF, and some lip balm. If I’m lucky, I might throw on something particularly exotic—say, a hydrating serum or brightening eye cream—but that’s usually only because it landed on my desk in a PR package. (This isn’t a “perfect skin” flex nor some effortless Parisian philosophy. I’m just too lazy, distracted, and freelance-poor to keep up with BeautyTok’s ever-changing ingredient or trend of the week.)

Beauty confession #2: Lately, I’ve become increasingly aware of the passing of time—or more specifically, whether it’s beginning to show on my face. Maybe it’s the algorithms. Maybe it’s the conversations with friends peppered with preventative botox. Maybe it’s the almost-30 anxieties. Whatever the reason, fine lines and collagen have quietly entered the chat, my internal chat, in a way they never had before. Whether it’s social comparison or hyper-awareness, it’s easy to start looking for signs of ageing… even when there’s very little to find. But find, I must! 

Earlier this year, I booked an appointment with my dermatologist hoping to answer one question: how can I future-proof my skincare before I turn 30 to support my skin’s long-term health, rather than relying on quick-fixes or correcting concerns once they appear (at least, for now)? I expected to walk away with a grocery list of prescribed and over-the-counter products—one that would slowly chip away at my bank account, one serum at a time. Instead, the full-blown cowboy stand-off I’d envisaged between skincare rookie and skin pro came down to just two ingredients: niacinamide and vitamin A. This, I can do. 

Why Niacinamide And Vitamin A?

For the uninitiated—namely, me before this appointment—niacinamide and vitamin A are skincare’s ultimate power couple: social media-approved, science-backed, and recommended by dermatologists for their ability to support healthier skin and reduce fine lines over the long term. While each works differently, together they make a compelling case for earning permanent real estate on your vanity shelf. 

“These aren't trending ingredients with unsubstantiated claims. They're workhorses backed by decades of peer-reviewed research,” Sydney-based dermatologist Dr. Emily Forward says. “And I say that as someone who is very cautious about ingredient hype.” 

Is Vitamin A The Same As Retinol?

Not exactly. Vitamin A—one of the body’s key nutrients for supporting cell-turnover—is the umbrella term for a family of ingredients called retinoids in skincare. Retinols, retinals, and tretinoin are all derivatives of vitamin A, just packaged differently. 

Retinol is one type and the most widely available over-the-counter form. “It works, but it has to be converted twice by the skin before it becomes retinoic acid, the active form your cells can actually use,” Dr. Emily Forward says. Retinal (retinaldehyde) is one step up in potency, making it significantly more efficacious than retinol while still being available without a prescription. Then there’s prescription-strength retinoic acid (tretinoin), already in its active form—so it gets to work faster. It also carries the highest risk of irritation. “As a dermatologist, I recommend starting out low and slow and building up your skin tolerance.” 

Okay, But What Does It Do? 

A powerhouse ingredient, vitamin A is skincare’s closest thing to a non-injectable fountain of youth. “Retinoids are among the most extensively studied topical compounds in dermatology,” Dr. Emily Forward says. Their fat-soluble nature allows them to bind to retinoic acid receptors, supporting collagen production and cellular turnover. This is all to say: vitamin A can visibly reduce fine lines, improve skin texture, firm areas of laxity, restore plumpness, and address hyperpigmentation over time. A win for the girl who isn’t ready to go under the needle just yet. 

Its lesser-known superpower? Treating acne. “It prevents the build-up of dead skin cells that clog pores. It also improves skin texture in a way few other ingredients can match.” As someone who had (and now only infrequently experiences) hormonal skin, and isn’t on The Pill, this is music to my… skin. Vitamin A really does it all, both cosmetically and medically. It sweeps away dead skin cells, unclogs pores, and tackles dullness. 

What Is Niacinamide? 

Another derivative, niacinamide (also known as nicotinamide) belongs to the vitamin B3 family. Unlike vitamin A, it’s not an exfoliating or cell-turnover ingredient. Instead, it’s a water-soluble multitasker that supports the skin’s natural barrier, improves overall skin function, and helps reduce the appearance of enlarged pores. “It inhibits the transfer of melanosomes (pigment-producing vesicles) to keratinocytes, reduces transepidermal water loss, and has demonstrated anti-inflammatory effects,” Dr Emily Forward says. 

What Does This Look Like?

Brightness, baby! That, and fading dark marks, helping the skin retain moisture, regulating oil production, calming inflammation, and improving the appearance of fine lines over time. And exhale. With consistent use, niacinamide can support smoother, clearer, more luminous skin—all without the irritation often associated with stronger active ingredients.

“Its antimicrobial and barrier-restoring properties are underrated,” Dr Emily Forward says. Better yet, niacinamide is remarkably well tolerated—even among those with sensitive or rosacea-prone skin. “It's also one of the safest actives around, making it suitable for virtually all skin types, including during pregnancy.”

So, Can You Use Niacinamide With Vitamin A? 

For sure—they actually complement one another. Unlike some active ingredients that can be irritating in combination, niacinamide’s barrier-supporting properties can help offset some of the initial sensitivity associated with vitamin A while supporting overall skin health. “Vitamin A drives structural change deep within the dermis, while niacinamide works at the epidermal level. Strengthening the barrier, calming inflammation, and evening skin tone,” Dr Emily Forward says. “[They’re] a genuinely well-matched pair in one routine.” 

How Do You Use Niacinamide With Vitamin A In The Same Routine?

The (skin) world’s at your fingertips. You can apply separately, layer, or find formulations that combine both—there’s no single “correct” way. If layering, apply niacinamide first after cleansing, allow it to absorb, then follow with your vitamin A. “Formulations that combine both are also a great option. They reduce complexity and are often formulated to minimise irritation,” Dr Emily Forward says. 

Go-To’s Very Amazing Retinal is one such formulation, combining niacinamide and retinal with orobanche extract—a herbaceous plant extract that helps to plump and smooth, while supporting the skin barrier. Powerful yet gentle (we love a babygirl product), it’s designed to help firm, hydrate, and brighten complexion. 

If you’re using separate products, Dr Forward recommends niacinamide in the morning and Vitamin A at night. “Ultimately, the best routine is one you'll actually follow consistently.”

Sounds Perfect. Is There A Catch? 

Hmm, yes—don’t go gung-ho with vitamin A. The most common mistake is introducing it too quickly (we know you’re excited, okay!). Dr Emily Forward recommends starting with two nights per week, then gradually increasing the frequency as your skin acclimatises. “Pushing through it too fast is how I see many patients end up with a damaged barrier and swear off retinoids forever.”

As for niacinamide, the main pitfall is concentration. “More isn’t always better,” Dr Forward says. Ten per cent is generally the upper limit and is often used by brands for more targeted, intensive treatment of hyperpigmentation or extremely oily skin—but it can increase the risk of flushing and erythema (redness). Five per cent is effective for most people. “And when introducing active ingredients into any skincare regime, I typically recommend starting with one or two products and building from there.”

Are These Ingredients Suitable For Everyone?

Not vitamin A. The ingredient is contraindicated during pregnancy and breastfeeding, meaning it should be avoided. “This is an absolute, not a guideline,” Dr Emily Forward says. “Anyone who is pregnant or trying to conceive should avoid all retinoids and switch to bakuchiol as a gentler alternative.” Those with eczema, rosacea, or another compromised skin condition should also introduce vitamin A with extra caution. Start with the lowest concentration and least frequent application. 

As previously mentioned, niacinamide is highly inclusive (and universally adored). At higher concentrations, it can cause flushing in those with very sensitive or reactive skin. “If that happens, simply drop the concentration.” 

So, Are Vitamin A And Niacinamide The Closest Thing To “Botox” In A Bottle? 

Not quite, but they’re probably the closest skincare gets. “In my clinical opinion, they're among the most evidence-based ingredients available,” Dr Emily Forward says, speaking on vitamin A and niacinamide’s long-term benefits. It’s a slow burn—no quick fixes here, hun—but they are sustainable tools for supporting skin health and healthy ageing. “The research on retinoids is compelling: consistent long-term use has been shown to increase dermal collagen density, improve epidermal thickness, and visibly reduce the signs of photoageing.” 

Meanwhile, niacinamide supports the skin barrier, addresses pigmentation, and keeps inflammation in check. Used consistently, with SPF every single day (lest we forget 50+ sunscreen is probably the simplest, most robust form of anti-ageing we have—the sun isn’t exactly doing us any favours), the combination forms a genuinely solid foundation for skin longevity. “When it comes to skincare, remember consistency is key.” 

For me, that’s perhaps the biggest takeaway. Future-proofing my skincare doesn’t require a bathroom cabinet filled with fancy schmancy products or a complicated 12-step routine that I’d slowly surrender, much like New Year’s resolutions. It’s just two ingredients, a little patience, and the consistency to actually stick with them. So far, my skin’s looking happy. And I’m happy. This’ll do.